We've reached the second part about island wines. In the first part, we introduced you to the beautiful Mallorca. An island in the Spanish Balearics where sun, wind, and diverse soil structures create an ideal mix for an intriguing glass of wine!
For the second stage, we venture to the island forever associated with Napoleon Bonaparte. For centuries, a love-hate relationship has simmered here with the French mainland. Since May 14, 1991, this island has formed a kind of enclave and holds a special status within the French Republic, granting it autonomy. In terms of tourism, this island is primarily known for its magnificent hiking trails. The GR20 is world-famous and a true must for enthusiasts.
Wine has been made in Corsica for 6,000 years. Phocaeans, Romans, and even Italians pressed grapes there for centuries. It was not until 1768 that the island was sold to France. To this day, the traces of its Italian past are visible in its viticulture, for example, in the grape varieties planted there.
Winemaking in Corsica hasn't always been smooth sailing. By the mid-20th century, little of the viticulture remained. That changed in the 1960s. Bulk wine producers took over vineyard management and produced significant volumes. Fortunately, this trend is now over, and more serious winemakers have taken over. They now produce quality wines primarily consumed in France. Consequently, there is little export of Corsican wine.
Most wine is produced under the AOP Corse appellation. Wines that do not comply with the rules of this appellation (for example, because different grape varieties have been used) are marketed as Île de Beauté IGP. There are two communal AOPs that may be mentioned on the bottle: Patrimonio and Ajaccio.
The better Corsican wines are produced in the coastal region. These are divided into 5 major zones.
- Coteaux-du-Cap-Corse is a peninsula in the North. Here you will be able to taste many white wines. It is also the coolest region.
- Corse Porto-Vecchio, on the other hand, is located in the Southeast. The climate here is very Mediterranean, and the wines taste robust and spicy.
- Corse Figari is a small part in the Southwest of the island, and in this microclimate, you will find fine, elegant wines in all three colors (white, red, and rosé).
- If we continue along the coast to the West, we reach Corse Sartène: facing the wind head-on, these wines consistently exhibit exceptional freshness and salinity. Many young winemakers are situated in this still relatively unknown area.
- But the finest and most beautiful vineyards are located in Corse Calvi, where nature is a bit wilder, and the wines are slightly spicier and more complex.
A characteristic of Corsican wines is that they are generally sleek and firm. This applies to both white and red. Due to their relatively high acidity and mineral character, these wines can also charm and surprise amateur wine lovers.
Bernard Devriendt
Indigenous grape varieties
White grape varieties:
* Vermentinu – I want to taste!
Red grape varieties:
* Niellucciu – I want to taste!
* Sciaccarellu – I want to taste!
* Minustellu (Graciano) – I want to taste!
* Moresconu
* Carcajolo Nero (Parraleta)
Clos Culombu
The story of the family-run Clos Culombu began in 1973 with Paul, the eldest son of the Suzzoni family. His passion for wine started at a very young age, making the choice to study agriculture an easy one. Starting a wine business requires significant finances, so his father helped him by purchasing some plots of land. Thus, his dream quickly became a reality, and the first Niellucciu vines were planted. In 1986, Etienne, the youngest son of the family, took over the estate. He made many investments, and under his management, the total vineyard area grew to 64 hectares. 2016 marked the most recent transition on the estate with Paul-Antoine, Etienne's eldest son, having the honor of producing Clos Culombu's 40th vintage. And this was done according to the philosophy of 'stay humble and always do your best'.
Their 27 plots are located on the banks of the dried-up Fiume Seccu river on the slopes of Capu Bracaghju. The vineyards are nestled in a very diverse landscape with olive trees, oaks, and scrubland. Due to its unique location between the coast and high mountains, the Golfe de Calvi harbors a microclimate known locally as 'Balagne'. This reduces the risk of spring frosts and hail. Winters are mild and wet. Higher up, precipitation turns into snow, and the meltwater in spring provides the vines with sufficient water reserves to survive the dry and hot summers. Due to the proximity of the sea, a strong wind often blows, which, together with the dry conditions, is a natural ally in the fight against diseases and fungi. From its inception in 1973, the use of herbicides and pesticides was forbidden. Since 2013, the entire estate has been organically certified, and they are now taking their first steps into biodynamics, where the balance of the ecosystem is their main focus.
They also pay great attention to the expression of the terroir in their wines. In their view, this encompasses everything and is the combination of the microclimate, the choice of grape varieties, the unique location, biodiversity, and the texture and type of the soil. Their vineyards lie on a 350-million-year-old granite plate that has been slowly eroding and crumbling ever since. The complex soil consists of monzogranite, composed of metamorphic rock with a high content of silica, potassium, magnesium, and manganese. The higher vineyards are richer in sand, while lower down you find more loam and clay. Alluvial deposits from the 1937-meter-high Montegrossu add an extra pigment to the soil composition.
The construction of a new winery in 2010 marked a pivotal year for Clos Culombu. Thanks to the ultra-modern facilities, the vinification, which is initiated solely with indigenous yeasts, is entirely temperature-controlled. For aging, the estate has stainless steel tanks, 500-liter French oak barrels, clay amphorae, and sandstone amphorae.
The continuous presence of wind on this island drastically reduces the chance of diseases in the vineyard. Organic viticulture is therefore evident here, and conventional viticulture is rather the exception.
Joery de lille
The wines of Clos Culombu offer an ideal opportunity to get to know and appreciate Corsica as a wine region. And this is through a winery that is very close to nature and can rely on a long family tradition. Taste these wines 'blind' and transport yourself to these magnificently located vineyards, and they will give you even more pleasure.
